Wellington Shetland Society
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July 2004 newsletter

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Winter, July 2004

 

A peerie wird fae da editor

 

Up-Helly-Aa is a distinctive Shetland festival which celebrates the community's Viking links and has developed into a cultural icon. It is a festival by the community for the community. Although fame of Lerwick's festival has spread and some folk outside Shetland visit especially to enjoy the spectacle, it remains primarily a festivity for locals.

 

Aspects of Up-Helly-Aa have, at times, featured in our Society's activities. As early as 1928 UpHelly-Aa was celebrated in style with a galley, Viking squad and Guizer Jad. The event was repeated for several years. 1972 saw a resurgence of Norse celebrations with the completion of a galley the Bregdi and the formation of a Viking squad. The galley and squad visited various shopping malls as a fundraising activity for charities. A Viking festival was held and the Viking Ball introduced. For our 75th celebration a galley was ceremonially burnt on the lagoon at Frank Kitts Park by a Viking squad which had paraded with flaming torches. They were accompanied by squads made up of other ethnic groups with whom the society had close links.

 

Other societies have also celebrated Up-HellyAa. The Shetland Society of Canterbury built a galley and held an Up-Helly-Aa celebration, a few years ago, with the galley being put to the torch on Sumner Beach. The Auckland Shetland Society has developed its own antipodean version which has become part of the society's activities.

 

These festivities are a tangible way to celebrate our distinctive Shetland identity. But no matter how much effort and enthusiasm goes into such activities they can never match the real event.

This year our President participated in the real McCoy! Jim was a member of the Jad's squad in Lerwick's Up-Helly-Aa. Also our Treasurer, Rose, was there to enjoy proceedings. So this newsletter is an Up-Helly-Aa special, a chance to get the inside story!

 

Rose Coutts gives us an historical overview of the development of Up-Helly-Aa and describes current proceedings. Jim provides an overview of his duties in the Jad's squad. And, as usual, there is news of Society happenings.

 

Mary Wood

 

Up -Helly-Aa

 

The Up Helly Aa fire festivals of Shetland are indeed something special, with the Lerwick parade being the largest and most spectacular. With more than 900 torch-bearers, dragging a Viking galley through the streets to the site where it is ceremoniously burnt, followed by all night dancing and entertainment, being part of Up Helly Aa is an unforgettable experience. Although one internet site acclaims, "they are now famous world-wide" it is still unlikely that you will have heard about them unless you have a connection with Shetland.

 

History      

 

The origins of Up Helly Aa are unclear. The present festival grew from a tradition of dragging flaming tar barrels through the streets of Lerwick until it was outlawed in 1874. It's possible that the tar barrelling grew from even older yuletide celebrations. Old Yule, observed on the 5th of January, was the start of the celebrations, and the 24th day following was the final day. Known as Antonsmas or Up Helly Aa, it was a day of fire, feasting and merrymaking not too dissimilar to the present day festivities!

 

What is known is that in 1881 the first torchlight procession took place in Lerwick at Up Helly Aa. In 1882 a "Worthy Chief Guizer" was appointed and by 1886 he and his committee were responsible for the arrangements for the procession. In 1889 the first longship appeared and elements from Shetland's Norse heritage started to appear, including the concept of skilled workmanship and an elaborate form of disguise, known as "guizing". In 1908 the last Tuesday in January became recognised as Up Helly Aa day, and the day after became a public holiday in Lerwick - a tradition which (thankfully) still exists today.

 

By 1911 the Worthy Chief Guizer had became the Guizer Jarl, and one of the squads, dressed in Viking costumes looked so impressive that they were asked to lead the procession, the fore-runner of yet another part of today's Up Helly Aa tradition.

 

By then too, the Subscription Sheet, the Bill, and the Up Helly Aa songs were all part of the celebrations, as were the procession of squads led by the Guizer Jarl, and the galley burning. After the galley was burnt the squads of guizers would visit the "open" houses and halls. They were already well known for their stunts and turns, the beginnings of the way today's squads choose a theme, which often pokes fun at officialdom.

 

Up Helly Aa has never been cancelled because of the weather, which is quite remarkable given that it is held in the middle of winter when the weather can be notoriously unpleasant. But it has been cancelled, first on the occasion of Queen Victoria's death in 1901, and later through both the 1st and 2nd World Wars. Causing considerable controversy, it was also postponed for a week on the occasion of the death of Winston Churchill in 1965.

 

In 1921 the Jarl's squad was in Viking costume for the first time. and thereafter this became the recognised custom. And by 1923 there was concern that the festival was fast becoming too big as the number of guizers that year exceeded 300!

 

With the outbreak of the 2 nod World War there was a ten year lapse before Up Helly Aa was resumed again to brighten up the streets of Lerwick. Despite the break, the enthusiasm was enormous, with the 1949 parade featuring 49 squads and over 600 guizers! However in 1973, with the increase in population as the development of the oil industry took effect, there was a real concern that the numbers were becoming excessive, threatening to swamp the festival making it unworkable. A ruling was put into place, requiring a minimum of five years residency in Shetland before being eligible to participate as a guizer. This also had the effect of quietening the fears of many that Up Helly Aa was in danger of being lost to "incomers", and could escalate into becoming nothing more than a spectacle for tourists.

 

It is then followed by Up Helly Aa celebrations including Lerwick, Cullivoe, Nesting' and Girlsta, Northmavine, Bressay and finally Brae. Brae Up Helly Aa is traditionally the final one for the year.

 

Today's Festivals

 The first of the fire festivals held is the Scalloway Fire Festival (and it is the only festival known as a fire festival, rather than Up Helly Aa), usually in the second week in January.

 

By far and away the biggest of the festivals, the preparations for the Lerwick Up Helly Aa continue virtually year round. The planning and preparations are meticulous, with the three months leading up to the celebrations being extraordinarily busy and well organised. The galley is beautifully and lovingly crafted, the Subscription Sheet and the Bill prepared by hand, torches made, and costumes of increasing complexity and individuality designed and made.

 

For the Jarl’s squad, the last Tuesday in January is a long, long day. In the early hours of the morning the Bill is erected at the Market Cross. then the Galley is taken from the Galley Shed to the British Legion where the Jarl’s squad is already assembled.

 

Accompanied by the Lerwick Brass Band, the Jarl and his squad lead the Galley past cheering crowds towards the Alexandra Wharf where it will remain on show throughout the day. As the Galley is positioned at the wharf, the Guizer Jarl leads his squad along Commercial Street to the Market Cross, and then along the waterfront to the wharf. The squad position themselves in front of the Galley, and many photos later, they are led by the Lerwick Pipe Band to the Town Hall. At a reception hosted by the Convenor of the Shetland Island's Council the Jarl is traditionally given the freedom of the town of Lerwick. Following the reception the Jarl’s squad visits schools, hospitals and homes for, the elderly. And the day has -only just begun!

 

The celebrations also include the Junior festival - now coming up to it's 50" year of participation - when at 11 am the Junior Jarl leads his squad with their galley along the streets of Lerwick to Sound Primary School. The Junior Squad are the first to light up. Assembling at 5.15pm, they light up at 5.30pm and lead their galley through to the King George V Park where it is ceremoniously burnt.

 

At 6.50pm the squads of guizers muster,

After a six year break for the 1st World War, had Up Helly Aa not been so well established it may have well died along with so many of its young participants. But revive it did, and in  and shortly before 7.30pm the lights go out including all street and public lighting in the vicinity. On a given signal, red flares start the light up and within seconds the Hillhead is lit by a long line of torches. Led by the Jarl’s squad, the dramatic procession gets underway. Lines of guizers follow the galley, torches blazing and singing the Up Helly Aa song as they march through the streets to the park where the galley comes to rest. The guizers now circle the galley, and a stirring rendition of the Up Helly Aa songs follows. Then three cheers for Up Helly Aa and the torches are flung into the galley, which soon lights up the darkened sky as the flames shoot upwards. The precision and organisation of the whole parade is superb as it has to be with so many taking part.

 

From there, the guizers now prepare themselves for the round of visits to the halls in Lerwick. Already prepared by their hosts and hostesses, the halls are ready as groups of squads perform their acts. The squads usually arrive in groups of three, and following the acts there is a dance, a chance to chat and then they are on their way to the next hall.

 

There is always a specially enthusiastic welcome for the Jarl’s squad, who will continue the rounds of the halls along with the other squads. This continues all night until the final group depart (usually about breakfast time) and the weary revellers wend their way home for some sleep.

 

But it's not all over for the Jarl’s squad, as traditionally they continue their visits on Wednesday, ending the evening doing a round of visits to all the clubs in Lerwick. In the days to come, there will continue to be other engagements when the squad will assemble, and in the past these have included invitations to take part in celebrations in other parts of Scotland and Europe as well as Shetland.

 

Like any enduring festival or event, Up Helly Aa has developed and changed over the years. It is now the largest festival of its kind in Britain, but it remains very much a festival for Shetlanders by Shetlanders. The growth and strength of these celebrations all over Shetland means that the tradition of Up Helly Aa is close to the hearts of all Shetlanders, and remains with them forever.

 

ROSE  COUTTS
 

A day or two in the life of a Jarl's  Squad member

 

JIM  COUTTS  tells about the big event.

 

Rose and 1 stayed with Michael and Doreen Gray in Lerwick for the festival. Michael, a Scalloway man, had been in the Jarl's Squad on three previous occasions so he knew the ropes, what, where, when and how. His knowledge was invaluable and made a huge difference to my enjoyment of Up Helly Aa.

 

Tuesday 27 January

 

 6.30am Rise and shine. Breakfast. Then on with the uniform. This isn't as simple as it sounds, not something you can do solo! Thankfully Michael was on hand to help.

 

8am The Jarl's Squad gathers at the Islesburgh Community Centre for a cuppa and last minute instructions. There are 45 in the squad and 12 boys as well.

 

8.25am The Squad marches to the Toll Clock shopping centre at the north end of the waterfront accompanied by the pipe band.

 

9.15am Leave for the British Legion where a plaque is presented by the Jarl. Time for another cuppa.  Outside snow starts falling.

 

9.50am Depart for Alexandra wharf. This time marching with the brass band. We stop briefly at the Market Cross to view the Proclamation Bill and a photo shoot.

 

10.05am reach the Alexandra Wharf where the galley is on display. It's snowing heavily by now and rather cool! The Jarl and some members of the squad climb into the galley with the boys, and the rest of the squad stand in front for the official photos.

 

10.35am Depart for the Town Hall marching, via Fort Charlotte, with the pipe band.

 

10.50am Arrive at the Town Hall for an official reception. Invited guests include hosts and hostesses of the halls which participate in the festival, former Jarls, members of Up Helly Aa committees, representatives of the galley builders and torch makers etc. Also Rose! We are welcomed by the Lord Lieutenant of Shetland and the Convener of the Shetland Islands Council. The Convener addresses the guests, the Jarl replies and a toast is drunk. Then there is a chance to mix and mingle and enjoy some refreshments. More photos and a radio interview!

 

11.50am Time to move on. The Jarl's Squad is divided into two sub squads, left hand and right hand squads. Each squad is provided with musicians and a bus is allocated to each squad. I'm with the left hand squad and we all head for Sound Primary School. Great reception from the kids who are wearing cardboard Viking helmets they have made and decorated. We sing the Up Helly Aa song and the kids reply by singing it back to us. The Jarl's squad also has a squad song, we sing that too. This year it was There's No Business Like Show Business. Stanley Manson, the Guizer Jarl, is heavily involved in drama activities in Lerwick, hence the song.

 

12.30pm We head to The Shetland Hotel and a huge lunch. A presentation is made of a squad shield.

 

1.50pm Off again, this time to Bell's Brae School and a similar format as the previous school.

 

2.30pm Next is a visit to Edward Thomason House, an eventide home. More singing and photos taken as well as talking to the staff and residents. 1 talked to one resident who remembered Mum and Dad.

 

3.20pm On to the Gilbert Bain Hospital. Here 1 meet a doctor who will shortly be moving to Timaru. Small world.

 

3.50pm   We visit Montfield - another eventide  home.

 

4.20pm   To the Town Hall and afternoon tea.

 

5.20pm   The Squad members line up like a guard of honour for the start of the Junior Up Helly Aa procession.

 

6pm     Into the Town Hall for dinner and a  chance to relax before the big event. 7.15pm The Squad 'marches up the ranks' accompanied by the brass band. All the guizer squads form into two lines along the Hillhead, there were 45 squads involving about 836 men. The Jarl's Squad march between them. It was an emotional time and a highlight of the night. The squads cheer on the Jarl's Squad and there is great rapport between everyone. We rendezvous with the galley waiting at the south end of the Hill Head.

 

7.30pm Light Up. A few minutes earlier all the lights in the town are turned off. A flare goes up to signal the start of the light up. Marshals placed at intervals among all the squads have hand held flares. They quickly run along the lines lighting the torches. In a short time there are 9001000 flaming torches forming two lines, a wonderful sight. The torch was heavier than 1 expected but the heat it generated was most welcome!

 

The Jarl. climbs into the galley. The galley is slowly pulled forward and the procession is underway. Jarl's Squad members walk alongside the galley and the other squads follow behind accompanied by the pipe and brass bands. The Up Helly Aa Song is sung along the way. The procession follows a prescribed route which includes the Lower Hillhead, St Olaf St, Prince Alfred St, King Harald St. People line the route cheering and clapping. Finally the galley and procession arrive at the burning site in the north King George V playing field.

 

The squads form a large circle, about 10 men deep, around the galley with the Jarl's Squad closest to the galley. The Galley Song is sung and the Jarl's Squad march around the galley. The Jarl then calls for 3 cheers for the galley makers, the torch makers and the festival. The previous Guizer Jarl. then calls 3 cheers for the current Guizer Jarl. The Jarl. climbs out of the galley. A bugle call is made and on the last note the torches are systematically thrown into the galley. As the galley starts to bum The Norseman's Home is sung. 8.30pm The squad leaves the burning galley and marches to The Marlex pub, not far away.

 

9.05pm Time to visit the halls. We travel by bus. There are 12 different halls and we spend about 40 minutes at each hall. On arrival we sing the Up Helly Aa Song and our squad song. There's time to relax, mix and chat with people, perhaps fit in a dance or two or have some refreshments. The other squads do the rounds of the halls too. Three squads travelling together they proceed in a clockwise direction around the halls. The Jarl's Squad goes anticlockwise.

 

Wednesday 28 January

 

7.10am We leave the final hall and head for the Lerwick Hotel for breakfast.

 

8.55am Arrive 'home'. Michael and Doreen were host and hostess at the Anderson High School hall; they arrive home not long before me so Michael was on hand to help me out of the uniform! And so to bed zzzzzzzz!

 

7.30pm Back into the uniform and the Jarl's Squad visit service clubs in the town. These are more informal visits.

 

Thursday 29 January

 

1am.  Leave the final club and head for 'home'.

 

Up Helly Aa is an amazing and unique festival. The scale and precision of the organization is incredible and there are so many people involved. The atmosphere and camaraderie of the squad members is something I'll never forget.

 

Participating in the Jarl's Squad was one of the most memorable events of my life.   Definitely worth growing a beard and travelling to the other side of the world!!

 

JIM  COUTTS

 

 

Twatree wirds du maybe dusna ken

 

blyde   glad

 

huggi staff implement consisting of a large hook

on the end of a stout handle used for hauling large

fish aboard a boat when they have been brought to

the surface with a line

 

owes skerri scoop used to bale water out of a

boat

 

tushkar           spade for cutting peat

 

 

Forthcoming Functions

 

Our Annual General Meeting will be held on Sunday 15th August, time and venue to be notified later.

 

We're joining with Hawkes Bay again for the Hastings Blossom Festival, Saturday 11th   September. We had a grand time two years ago, so why not join us and support our Viking squads! Warning: if you're going to want accommodation book now - there are several functions-on in the Hawkes Bay that weekend.

 

And a Plea from our Treasurer

 

'I'm very embarrassed to admit that 1 haven't sent out reminder notices to members for this years subscriptions. If you haven't paid, could you please complete the form below and send in your sub before the AGM. If you're not sure, (and have already paid) I'm quite happy to accept subs in advance!"         

Rose

 

SUBSCRIPTIONS 1 July 2003 to 30 June 2004 Please make cheques payable to The Shetland Society of Wellington, and post together with this form to the Treasurer, Box 14-708, Wellington.

 

Membership category  

 

 

Family                                      $30.00

Couple                                     $25.00

Single Person with Child           $17.50

Single Person                            $15.00

Senior Citizen   $7.50

 

Name ..............................................................................................

 

Address ..........................................................................................

 

 

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