From the Presidents’ desk.

80 Years Old and Still Going Strong!

Throughout this year we have celebrated the 80^th anniversary of the incorporation of the Shetland Society of Wellington. It was marked with the welcoming of the Shetland Reverse Hamefarers in February / March of this year, with the Viking Ball being held earlier than usual so that our visitors could attend. At the Family Focus function (which we combined with our AGM) we again acknowledged our birthday. And at our final function of the year, our Christmas Dinner, we again intend to mark our 80^th anniversary with a special celebration at Premier House on Saturday 7 December.

We’re very proud that the Society is still going after 80 years or longer. For certainly there would have been gatherings well before the incorporation date of September 1922. Indeed we have anecdotal evidence that a society of Shetlanders was meeting in Wellington as early as the late 1870’s, so we could have been celebrating our centenary several years ago! And as our historians, Susan and Graham Butterworth have pointed out, many ethnic societies similar to ours only last a generation or two before interest wanes to such an extent that they cease to exist.

So what is so special about the Shetland Society that it is still thriving after 80 years? To quote Susan Butterworth from our own publication, Chips off the

Auld Rock:

."..that from the very beginning the Wellington society had a purpose beyond the immediate interests of its own members

This has been the single most important reason for the Wellington society’s continued vigour over three generations. At crucial times, when it has seemed about to run out of steam, it has always rejuvenated itself by finding a new purpose beyond its own concerns."

In the early days the Society met the needs of the newly arrived Shetland migrants, having travelled half way round the world and with usually no expectation of ever being able to return to Shetland again. Being welcomed by the Shetland Society would have softened their introduction to life in a strange land, surrounded by "uncan fock". The regular social functions would have given them the chance to make new friends and reminisce with old friends and family who had come to New Zealand before them. During the 2^nd World War when there was no migration, the Society rallied to support its enlisted members and their families both here in New Zealand and in Shetland. Then following the war years, a new wave of migrants from Shetland again saw the Society blossom in its supportive role.

When migration virtually ceased in the 1960’s the Society again looked further than its own back door. It was leaders of our Society, J L Stewart and more especially J L Arcus, who instigated and persuaded authorities in Shetland to hold a Hamefarin. This occasion provided the opportunity for Shetlanders throughout New Zealand, and indeed the world, to join with Shetlanders in Shetland to celebrate their Shetland heritage.

This was the beginning of the need to recognise the growing group of Shetland descendants, and the need to reinforce contact with Shetland and its culture if the Society was going to continue to thrive.

After a period in the late sixties when a lack of interest in Society functions saw a certain apathy set in, there was a huge revival of interest when, once again, the Society found a purpose outside of just its own interests. By completing the galley Bregdi and holding a Viking festival culminating in a Viking Ball, the Society put Shetland culture before the wider public in Wellington for the first time. I do not need to tell you how successful the Viking Ball was and still is. Nowadays, there is a growing appreciation throughout the Shetland community both in New Zealand and Shetland that the Viking Ball is a public expression of our heritage.

The vitality that we saw during our 75^th celebrations with "Shetland Week" is an outstanding example of the Society’s outward approach. Besides the achievement of publishing our history, Chips off the Auld Rock, we again put Shetland culture and heritage before the public on a scale never before seen outside of Shetland. The exhibitions, displays, workshops, and entertainment were all of an exceptionally high standard. Local schools and children were involved with the education project, whilst the visit and concerts by the Shetland Heritage young fiddlers were enjoyed throughout New Zealand as well as Wellington. We reached thousands of people, many of Shetland descent that were unaware of what their heritage meant.

Today, we are becoming more and more aware that those Shetland descendants want to know about their roots. Many become interested in Shetland as they compile their own family history, and are fascinated to find out that their Shetland heritage and culture is quite unique. As international travel has become more affordable, many have taken advantage of Hamefarins held in 1985 and 2000, as well as other group tours, to visit Shetland in the company of others with similar interests. The increasing number of Shetlanders visiting New Zealand has undoubtedly strengthened ties with families and friends. There is no doubt that a special kinship exists between Shetlanders and New Zealanders – and long may it continue. The establishment of our own website has been the Society’s latest approach to reach more of the wider Shetland community, both locally and globally. We are continuing to look forward and outward and look to the future with confidence.

So, we have a lot to be proud of and celebrating our 80^th anniversary is pretty special. Last year we felt extremely honoured that Helen Clark offered us the use of Premier House for a Society function. Receiving such an offer from our Prime Minister is pretty special, and what better occasion than a joint Christmas and 80^th Anniversary celebration. I do hope that you can join us on Saturday 7 December for a very special evening.

Jim Coutts

EVENTS

CHRISTMAS PARADE

Sunday November 17                  (participation to be confirmed)

 

 

CHRISTMAS PARTY

 

Sunday December 1st  @   2pm

 

Our traditional Christmas party for children and members

Scots Hall, Corner Hanson & Stoke Streets, Newtown

 

 

80^th   ANNIVERSARY  & CHRISTMAS  DINNER

 

Saturday December 7^th          @  6.30pm,

Premier House, Tinakori Road.

$25 pp.

As this is the residence of our Prime Minister, for Security reasons there can be no late acceptances.

 

Limited number of tickets available.

 

 

Next Year   

 

Sunday February 16th                   

Picnic, Queen Elizabeth Park, (site to be advised)

 

April /May

Viking Ball, Indian Cultural Centre, Kemp

Street,  Kilbirnie

 

OBITUARY: JOHN INKSTER

 

The Society mourns the loss of one of its notable seafarers, John Inkster who passed away in August. He was a great character, with a fine sense of humour and his stories entertained both young and old.  His knowledge of fishing was legendary and will be sorely missed by the wider community.  He was always a great supporter of the Society and we were looking forward to taking him up on his offer to make us some “staap”, a real Shetland fish dish. Unfortunately that cannot now happen.  Our deepest sympathies go to Kath and family.

---

OLD SHETLAND REMEDIES

When a person received a sprain, it was customary to apply to an individual experienced in casting the "wresting thread." This is a thread spun from black wool, on which are cast nine knots, and tied round a sprained leg or arm. During the time the operator is putting the thread round the affected limb, he says, but in such a tone of voice as not to be heard by the bystanders, nor even by the person operated upon:

The Lord rade,
And the foal slade;
He lighted.
And he righted.
Set joint to joint,
Bone to bone,
And sinew to sinew.
Heal in the Holy Ghost's Name!

 

Source: County Folk-Lore, vol. 3: Examples of Printed Folk-Lore Concerning the Orkney & Shetland Islands, collected by G. F. Black and edited by Northcote W. Thomas (London: Folk-Lore Society, 1903), p. 144.  Black's source: The New Statistical Account of Scotland, (Edinburgh, 1845), vol. 15 (Shetland), p. 141.

Shetland Ponies

Like the Shelties we covered in the last newsletter, the Shetland pony is unique. Because of the harsh Shetland climate and landscape a small tough pony evolved that could survive while roaming the scattald.  The Shetland pony can be seen in varying colours but black and dark brown are the most common.  Measured in height at the withers the pony’s can range in height from 42 inches down to 28 inches.  Hardy, resilient and gentle, the Shetland Pony is very strong for its size. It has large eyes, a thick coat and a heavy mane and tail   The history of Shetland ponies reads like the history of the islands. The pony has been there around two thousand years and possibly longer. In true Shetland fashion the pony is a hybrid breed, most likely a mix of the Highland or Fell/Dale of Scotland, the Scandinavian horse and possibly some Arabian stock from the shipwrecked Spanish Armada flagship, the Gran Grifton. This vessel foundered off the coast of Fair Isle with the admirals stud Arabian horses on board. Out of this diverse background we got the pony we know today that evolved to cope with a harsh environment.  Putting our rosy tinted glasses to one side, most readers will have experienced hostile weather when staying in Shetland.  The cold climate meant the breed had to conserve body heat.  Big horses and more highly-strung breeds would have had difficulty surviving but these small, quick, hardy, and intelligent ponies thrived. Rather akin to Shetlanders themselves. These early Shetland ponies were foaled in the fields, lived in the fields and died in the fields. Tough little horses far removed from a pampered life with stables and grooms in England. The flowing mane and tail, coupled with the thick furry winter coat, were essential to survival. Because the hills are stony, uneven and often steep, sure footedness and a flowing gait has become an inbred trait. The Scattald Crofters for many generations used the common grazing, or scattald, to supplement their few acres of arable 'in-by' land. The rough heather clad moorland was hardly lush grazing but both the Shetland Pony and Shetland sheep have developed good conversion rates for food and a comparatively high milk yield for nursing their offspring. Due to the rough hilly conditions, shelter from most wind directions was available from behind a hillock, an old stone wall or a peat bank. In recent times with many crofters enclosing their share in the common grazing this has cut down the animals scope to find shelter or to range freely.  However many scattalds still have access to beaches and both ponies and sheep can be seen eating seaweed at low tide to supplement their diet. Generally crofters did not ride their ponies;  they  lived on the scattalds and remained free to move around until required for use "flitting the peats," - carrying recently cut peats from the hills to the homes of the crofters for use as the main fuel. With few roads, the ponies often went  cross-country carrying heavy woven saddlebags called 'kishies' hung from wooden 'klibbers' on their backs.  Crofters also used the ponies to help pull up seaweed to fertilise the land. Shetland ponies were pack and saddle animals for most of their history.  But the Mines Act of 1847 brought about a drastic change. The Act quite rightly barred the use of children from much of the heavy underground labour in mines throughout Britain. Unfortunately the Shetland Pony was an ideal replacement and many geldings left Shetland to work in the mines. They generally commenced work around age of four. They were allowed out of the mine for a break once a year!  There were other breeds working in the mines as well, one being the larger Welsh pony. The downside of this export in ponies was that Shetland almost lost control of its stock because the best stallions were being exported.  In the Statistical Account of Shetland in 1841, John and James Ingram noted that, "the ponies are now much smaller in size than they were thirty years ago, entirely owing to the fact that all the best and stoutest are exported, and stallions of the most puny size are allowed to go at large." Many crofters, operating at subsistence levels had little choice – they could not afford to keep their best stock for breeding. Fortunately for the breed, things were rather different for major landowners. The Londonderry Stud, established in 1870 by Lord Londonderry, utilized land on Bressay and Noss and allowed crofters to run their mares with Lord Londonderry's stallions, from his facilities on Noss. If the foal was a colt, the owner of the stallion would buy it and export it for use in the mines. If the foal was a filly, it would be kept as breeding stock or sold to America where the demands from stud farms was high. More recently a major stabilizing force was the implementation of the Shetland Islands Premium Stallion scheme in 1956. The most recent information I have indicates that the Department of Agriculture has provided a high-quality registered stallion to seven Shetland Island common grazing scattalds, five on Unst, one in Walls, and one in the South Mainland, areas with long- standing studs. When you go back to Shetland you’ll find ponies grazing by the roadside - just out of Sumburgh airport for example - and throughout the islands on the beaches or in the hills with their photogenic foals delighting the tourist and photographer -- looking wild but in fact owned and loved by a proud Shetlander.

The Faroes  

In the last newsletter we looked south to Fair Isle.  This time I intend travelling north to the Faroes.

There are 18 islands, 162 nautical miles (300 km) North West of Shetland. The islands are volcanic rock shaped by the ice ages with typical u-shaped valleys and cirques, separated by peaks and ridges. The highest point on the island is Slættaratindur, 882m, on the northern part of Eysturoy.  As with Shetland, the Gulf Stream brings warmer water northward, keeping the waters around the islands ice-free in winter. The climate is similar to Shetland, perhaps a little colder on average, with mild winters averaging around 3 degrees Celsius. In summer the average is between 10 – 15 degrees Celsius.  Most rain falls in autumn and winter.

 

The name first appeared as Faereyiar (c. 1225), meaning "Sheep Islands," which presumably led to the national symbol, a ram.  The first recorded settlement was a group of Irish monks  (c. 700 AD), but the major settlement of the islands began in the 9^th century with Norwegian colonization. That led to the Faroes becoming part of the Viking hub along with Shetland and Orkney.  The Viking settlers established a parliament with local “Things” in different parts of the islands with the main “Thing” on Tinganes in Tórshavn. 

Initially the islands were under the control of Norwegian kings, but passed to Denmark with the rest of Norway in 1380. When the Norwegian crown came under the Danish monarchy, the Faroe Islands developed trade with the Hanseatic merchants in Bergen. With the Reformation, the Danish king increased his control of trade and established a monopoly, operated by different merchants and companies. In  1709 the Faroes were separated from Norway and governed directly from Copenhagen. Danish officials arrived to oversee the trade and protect it from competing merchants and the bands of pirates who for centuries had plagued the islands. Fort Skansin, overlooking Tórshavn harbour, is the remnant of the historic fortification.  During WW II the islands were administered by Britain and 1948 the Islands gained self-government except for defence and foreign policy which is still controlled by Denmark.

The population of the Faroes is roughly twice that of Shetland – around 47,000 people.  Like Shetland, fisheries and the fishing industry dominate Faroese life and almost all other industries stem directly from these activities. But direct involvement in fishing has fallen from 54% of the labour force in 1911 to around 10% today. Shipyards and the production of fishing tackle are the main secondary trades, although attempts have been made to establish other small industries. The limited home market and the distance to other markets has hindered development.

The agricultural sector, of which lamb and milk are the chief products, is mainly for domestic consumption. The 1845 census shows 68% of the population involved in farming – today it is around 1%. Agricultural land was the basis for the existence of the old peasant society. The population reflected the agricultural area and the quality of the land, as expressed in the Faroese marketal.  This is not a unit of area but rather an indication of yield that also gave an indication of the owner's rights and responsibilities within the settlement. The largest settlements also had the largest marketal. The capital, Tórshavn, was a trading and garrison town that was home to the islands' administration.

At the beginning of the 1990s falling fish supplies, economic problems, a large foreign debt and emigration of young skilled people created problems for the Faroes.  Things have improved in the past two years and there is the potential of North Sea oil discoveries – something Shetlanders will relate to - but at present Denmark is providing an annual subsidy of about 15% of GDP to assist with social and local government services 

Culture    

Like Shetland the Faroese culture was mainly kept alive through oral traditions. Following the Reformation, the hymns of the Church had Danish lyrics but were sung to Faroese music.  The Faroese oral tradition has conserved ballads, legends, fairy tales, riddles and proverbs. The best-known work is a ballad cycle about Sigurd Fafnersbane and his kin. 

How to get there

The Smyril line operates a weekly car and passenger ferry service between Lerwick and Tórshavn – the ferry departs at 4 pm on Sundays (Winter timetable) and takes around 12 hours. July & August are probably the best times to go because that’s when many of the cultural events take place. Smyril has an office in Lerwick – if you want more information send them an email at   office@smyril-line.co.uk

 

If you want to fly there, Maersk Air has a connection that departs Aberdeen at 9am for Billund Airport in Denmark arriving 10.45am.  The connecting flight departs from Billund at 12.05 arriving at the Faroes at 1pm.  

Lucia' Day

 

On December 13^th one of the most traditional Scandinavian festivities is celebrated. It is Lucia's day, the festival of light, which is celebrated in memory of St. Lucia    St Lucia is the patron saint of the blind.                                                                     
In the early hours of the morning a young woman, dressed in white and wearing a crown of blazing candles, brings light into the dark winter at homes, hospitals, schools and offices, serving steaming coffee with ginger biscuits and saffron bread for everybody.

There are Lucia processions everywhere and most towns and villages elect their own Lucia. The 'Lucia Queen' leads the processions, mostly consisting of a group of young girls and boys singing traditional carols. Lucia's day symbolically opens the Christmas celebrations in Scandinavia, bringing hope and light during the darkest months of the year.

Scandinavian families also celebrate Lucia at their homes. Early in the morning, one of the daughters in the family will wake everyone at home, wearing the traditional white dress and bringing a tray with coffee and saffron bread to each family member in his or her room. Similar seasonal puddings are also baked for visiting friends and relatives in the day of light.

The Vikings converted to Christianity around 1000 A.D. starting to adopt Christian traditions.  As the winter solstice festival fell on St Lucia's Day, both pagan and Christian traditions mixed to become the modern Lucia celebration: the festival of lights. The solstice was a magic festival and as people particularly feared goblins and ghosts bonfires would be burned in celebration.

THE ORKNEYING SAGA

 

I have referred to the Saga in previous newsletters – it is a major source of information relating to the Viking era.  As it was compiled at a later date between 1192 and 1206 by an unknown Icelandic scribe the saga is as much a piece of medieval literature as it is historical documentation. It is the only medieval chronicle to have Orkney as the central place of action and the corresponding relationship with Shetland.  The saga describes the conquest of the islands by the kings of Norway during the Viking expansion of the ninth century and goes on to narrate the subsequent history of the Earldom of Orkney.

There is a modern translation available from the Shetland Bookshop  £7.99  plus p& p.  The extracts I have selected have a Shetland flavour. Harold the Fair had laid waste to Orkney, Shetland and the Southern Isles but in the process the saga records

“ And in one battle, Ivar, son of earl Rögnvald, fell. But when king Harold sailed from the west, then he gave to earl Rögnvald, as an atonement for his son, Shetland and the Orkneys; but earl Rögnvald gave both lands to Sigurd his brother: he was one of king Harold's forecastle men. The king gave Sigurd the title of earl when he went from the west, and Sigurd stayed behind there in the west.”

Later in the saga we come across the description a battle at sea between Earl Rögnvald and Earl Thorfinn.  Rögnvald had 30 ships, Thorfinn had over 60.  Earl Rögnvald  had sailed from Norway west towards  Shetland where he was joined by loyal Shetlanders  and then on down to Orkney.  The saga describes the battle where Rögnvald’s forces, after fighting valiantly had their Norwegian allies desert.  Here is an excerpt from chapter 31 of the Saga:     

 

"The lord, so brave in burst of battle,
   Then had surely laid beneath him
   All that ancient land of Orkney,
   He had far less loss of men,
   If the sea-king son of Endil
   Could have brought that host to help him,
   Island-born, but Shetland's lord,
   By his army was betrayed."

And now that the main host had fled, then they, Kalf and Thorfinn, both ran aboard of earl Rögnvald’s ship, and then many men of earl Rögnvald’s fell. And when earl Rögnvald saw in what a straight he was come, and that he could not conquer Thorfinn and Kalf both, then he made them hew the lashings asunder, and laid himself out to fly. Then the day was far spent, and it began to grow dark. Earl Rögnvald sailed at once that night into the main, and so east to Norway; he did not slacken his course till he came into king Magnus' presence; he made him welcome now as before, and bade him be with him; and there earl Rögnvald stayed a while. “

 

                        
Guide for the New Zealand Traveller in Britain         by John McLean

 

This is a unique travel guide written specifically for New Zealand visitors to Britain.  Whilst the entry on Shetland is unlikely to add anything to your existing knowledge, the book contains a lot of detail on places in Britain that you are unlikely to find in any other travel guide or publication.

Normally selling for $30, John McLean has generously offered Society members the opportunity to purchase a copy direct from him for $20, including postage.  Just send a cheque for $20 to John McLean, 46a Waru Street, Khandallah, Wellington (Ph 479 -1267) to obtain a copy.

 

The Hastings Blossom festival

 

There was a record turnout. We would like to think it was to see Jarl Richard Rumbal lead our Viking squad along with junior Jarl Fiona Inkster and her very vocal Junior Vikings on our float. Well that’s our story!   What a great time everyone had!  As well as the opportunity to meet with Society members in Hawkes Bay, the Wellington contingent enjoyed a beautiful spring day and a very appreciative crowd.  Following the parade the Junior Vikings enjoyed time at the new Hastings recreation Centre and in the evening there was a meal at the Hibernian Club followed by dancing to the beat of a 16 peace jazz band. 

Our thanks go to Lily Baker for her great organisation and to the members of the Shetland Society of Hawkes Bay for being so welcoming. It was great to have Hawkes Bay members bolster the numbers in the Viking squads. Many thanks also to Gideon Anderson, Gary Moller and Alan Dixon for transporting the float and the gear, and of course to all squad members and supporters for joining in. 

_________________________________________

From the Editor

We had more material than we had room for this newsletter, so the first issue next year will contain an article on Arthur Sclater, commander of the Shetland Bus nerve centre at Scalloway during WW II and also an article on Gifford Tait, a Shetlander killed in WW I.   So keep an eye out for them.

In past newsletters I have mentioned our website.   We are now receiving over 300 hits a month. We have to be realistic about how many of those hits   result in people visiting the site but the site monitor shows about 20% are. The site is not directed so much at members as people here and overseas who are interested in things Shetland and in particular seeking information about Shetlanders in Wellington and our Society. 

This newsletter is the official communication of the Shetland Society of Wellington Inc.

 

Postal Address    PO Box  14 -708, Wellington

Email  Jim at       coutts.jim-rose@xtra.co.nz

Email  Ian at        sheba17@paradise.net.nz

Website:             http://quicksitebuilder.cnet.com/

                          sheba17/wellingtonshetlandsociety